Leaving Vancouver I cycled to Horseshoe Bay again where I followed the Sea to Sky highway. Brendan had warned me that it could get quite busy and the noise of the cars could be quite overwhelming. I played music on my phone, but unfortunately without earbuds it was completely covered by the noise. At last I was excited to get to Squamish at the end of the day- which had been in my mind for a while.
As much as I was excited to cross into a new country, and to get to Canada for the first time in my life, I felt relieved to walk out of the ferry with my bicycle, arriving in Victoria. The boat motioning was making me slightly nauseous. I was later told this is one of the only BC ferries to go accross opean ocean- which explains the pitching.
Landing in Seattle, fresh from a flight including a nightly layover in Portland I was in for a bit of a culture shock- Rain, rain, and rain was waiting for me ! As well as a fairly cold weather compared to what I had had until then in Mexico. And I was back into regulated country. A busy month was in store for me though.
The first part of this post narrates my adventures around La Paz with Ian. The second part talks about my travels plans for the next few months. Feel free to scroll down accordingly.
After coming back in La Paz from the Divide we spent a few days there relaxing and sorting out a few things. Since I have started travelling, I have spent a good amount of time solving minor bicycle and gear issues as well as on the internet for research and planning when we pass a city or big town. We were lucky to be able to count on an amazing Warmshowers host, Tully, who basically held a lot of our mail and Amazon gear orders for a few months before hosting us for a few days. There was plenty to see and do in La Paz.
Getting out of La Paz on a paved road for more than 15 miles, we get hot and sweaty 20 minutes in. It’s 30°C and the road climbs gradually and slowly until we turn onto dirt. At lunchtime we munch on grapefruits, much appreciated. Once on dirt it is mainly downhill, with a few small hills in between. We have good views after a few turns. The landscape fools us as what we think is sea far away turns out to be land.
Before leaving Mulege we looked for a local fisherman who could take us accross the bay on his boat. The next section of the Divide, the most remote side of Bahía Conception, is only reachable this way. After some asking around and bargaining with locals, we end up finding a tour boat/fishing guide on the indications of an American tourist (himself found in a bar). On our departure day, waiting for Alejandro at the boat launch we have some time to admire the pelicans and other birds there…
Arriving in San Ignacio we go in the restaurant “Rice and beans” who doesn’t offer rice and beans as such on their menu but only as an accompagnement for a lot of meat dishes as usual… Ian orders some off-menu though.
Leaving Bahia after a camp in a bush near the town (closer than the previous camp) we get resupplies in town for a four days ride again as we are not sure what to expect ahead in terms of road conditions and we might pass some resupply points on the first of January when everything is closed. In front of the supermarket we meet Lupita, Gabino’s wife (Our San Quintin Warmshowers host)! She is doing a three days walk from coast to coast, from the Pacific Ocean to the Sea of Cortez, with some friends.
Leaving the town we rejoined the trail. After some rocky passages and a good detour to avoid polytunnels we quickly found ourselves riding on a wide and compact stretch of dirt with no bumps whatsoever. We made ground quickly but due to a late start and some errands in Vicente we chose to camp not long after starting before San Quintin.
Close to dusk the remaining light, and then the sunset, made for some beautiful pictures.